Chii chinonzi jacquard jira?

Tsanangudzo yejira rejacquard

Jacquard jira rinoruka nemuchina uchishandisa shinda dzine mavara maviri kana anopfuura rinoruka zvakananga mapatani akaoma mujira, uye jira rinogadzirwa rine mavara ane mavara kana magadzirirwo.Jacquard jira rakasiyana nekugadzirwa kwemachira akadhindwa, ayo anosanganisira kutanga kuruka, uye ipapo logo inowedzerwa.

Nhoroondo ye jacquard machira

The predecessor of jacquardjira

Yakatangira jacquard jira iBrocade, jira resiririka rakatangira muZhou Dynasty yeChina (10th kusvika 2nd mazana emakore paki isati yasvika), ine mavara ane mavara uye hunyanzvi hunyanzvi.Munguva iyi, kugadzirwa kwemachira esirika kwakachengetwa chakavanzika nemaChinese, uye pakanga pasina ruzivo rwevanhu.MuHan Dynasty (makore makumi mapfumbamwe nemashanu mupaki), iyo Chinese Brocade inosuma Persia (zvino Iran) uye Daqin (yakare Humambo hweRoma) kuburikidza neSilk Road.

NaCooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design MuseumCC0, Link

Han Brocade: Nyeredzi shanu kubva kumabvazuva kubatsira China

Vanyori vezvakaitika kare veByzantine vakawana kuti kubva muzana remakore rechina kusvika rechitanhatu, kugadzirwa kwematepi musilika kwave kusipo, nerineni nemvere dziri iwo machira makuru.Yakanga iri muzana ramakore rechitanhatu apo vaviri vemamongi vakaunza chakavanzika chesericulture - kugadzirwa kwesilika - kuna mambo weByzantine.Somugumisiro, tsika dzokuMadokero dzakadzidza kupfuya, kurera nokudyisa makonye esirika.Kubva ipapo, Byzantium yakava mugadziri mukuru uye wepakati munyika dzekuMadokero, ichigadzira akasiyana masiriki mapatani, kusanganisira mabhuroka, damask, brocatelles, uye machira-akafanana nematepi.

提花面料-2

 

Munguva yeRenaissance, kuomarara kwekushongedza kwemachira esiririka eItaly kwakawedzera (kunonzi kwakavandudza masiriki ekuruka), uye kuomarara uye nehupamhi hwemhando yepamusoro yemachira esirika emhando yepamusoro zvakaita kuti Italy ive yakakosha uye yakanakisa kugadzira sirika muEurope.

Kugadzirwa kwejacquard loom

Pamberi pekugadzirwa kweJacquard loom, Brocade yaitora nguva kugadzira nekuda kwekushongedza kwemachira.Izvi zvakaita kuti machira aya aidhura uye aingowanikwa nevakuru nevapfumi chete.

Muna 1804 Joseph Marie Jacquard akagadzira 'Jacquard machine,' chigadziro chakasungirirwa chakarerutsa kugadzirwa kwemicheka yakanyatsogadzirwa seBrocade, damask, uye matelassé."Cheni yemakadhi inodzora muchina."makadhi akawanda anoroverwa anobatanidzwa pamwe chete munhevedzano inopfuurira.Makomba akawanda anoroverwa pakadhi rega rega, nekadhi rimwechete rakazara rinoenderana nemutsara wekugadzira.Meshini iyi ingangove imwe yeakanyanya kuoma magadzirirwo ekuruka, sekudururwa kweJacquard kwakagonesa kugadzirwa kweotomatiki kwemhando dzisingaperi dzemhando dzakaoma dzekuruka.

NeCC BY-SA 4.0,Link

Kugadzirwa kweJacquard loom kwakabatsira zvakanyanya muindasitiri yemachira.Iyo Jacquard maitiro uye inodiwa loom yekunamatira inotumidzwa zita remugadziri wavo.Izwi rekuti 'jacquard' harina kujeka kana kuganhurirwa kune chero chirukwa asi chinoreva imwe yekuwedzera yekudzora nzira inogadzirisa patani.Iwo machira anogadzirwa nemhando iyi yekuruka anogona kunzi 'jacquard machira.Kugadzirwa kwemuchina wejacquard kwakawedzera zvakanyanya kubuda kwemachira ejacquard.Kubva panguva iyo, micheka yejacquard yakaswedera kuhupenyu hwevanhuwo zvavo.

Jacquard machira nhasi

Jacquard looms yakachinja zvakanyanya mumakore.Nekugadzirwa kwekombuta, iyo Jacquard loom yakasuduruka kubva pakushandisa nhevedzano yemakadhi akaroverwa.Kusiyana neizvi, jacquard looms inoshanda nemapurogiramu emakomputa.Aya machira epamusoro anonzi maJacquard looms emacomputer.Mugadziri anongoda kupedzisa dhizaini yemachira ekugadzira kuburikidza nesoftware uye kugadzira inoenderana inoenderana loom operation chirongwa kuburikidza nekombuta.Iyo komputa jacquard muchina unogona kupedzisa kugadzirwa.Vanhu havachadi kugadzira seti yakaoma yemakadhi akaroverwa ega ega dhizaini, zvakanyanya kuderedza kudiwa kwekuisa nemaoko uye kuita iyo jacquard jira rekuruka nzira inobudirira uye inodhura.

Nzira yekugadzira jacquard jira

Dhizaini & Chirongwa

Kana isu tawana dhizaini yejira, isu tinotanga tafanirwa kuishandura kuita dhizaini faira iyo komputa jacquard loom inogona kuziva uye wozogadzirisa iyo chirongwa faira kudzora basa rekombuta jacquard muchina kupedzisa kugadzirwa kwejira.

Kuenderana nemavara

Kuti ugadzire jira semagadzirirwo akaitwa, unofanirwa kushandisa iwo chaiwo mavara mavara ekugadzira machira.Saka mutarisiri wedu weruvara anofanira kusarudza dzimwe shinda dzinoenderana neruvara rwemagadzirirwo kubva kuzviuru zveshinda uye ozoenzanisa mavara akafanana aya neruvara rwekugadzira rimwe nerimwe kusvikira shinda dzinonyatsoenderana neruvara rwegadzirirwo dzasarudzwa ——Rekodha nhamba yeshinda inoenderana.Iyi nzira inoda kushivirira uye ruzivo.

Kugadzirira kweshinda

Zvinoenderana nenhamba yeshinda yakapihwa nemucherechedzi, maneja wedu wekuchengetera zvinhu anogona kukurumidza kuwana Inoenderana Yarn.Kana huwandu hwemari husina kukwana, tinogona zvakare kutenga nekukurumidza kana kugadzirisa iyo Yarn inodiwa.Kuita kuti machira anogadzirwa mubatch imwechete haana mutsauko wemavara.Paunenge uchigadzira Iyo Yarn, tinosarudza Iyo Yarn yakagadzirwa mune imwechete batch yemuvara wega wega.Kana nhamba yeshinda mubatch isina kukwana, tichatenga zvakare batch yeYarn.Kana jira racho ragadzirwa, tinoshandisa ese achangotengwa mabhechi eYarn, kwete kusanganisa mabheti maviri eYarn kugadzirwa.

 jacquard jira raw material warn

Jacquard jira kurukwa

Kana machira ese akagadzirira, machira achabatana nemuchina wejacquard wekugadzira, uye tambo dzemavara akasiyana dzichabatanidzwa mune yakasarudzika.Mushure mokupinza faira yepurogiramu inomhanya, muchina wejacquard wekombuta uchapedza kugadzirwa kwejira rakagadzirwa.

Jacquard jira kurapwa

Mushure mekunge jira rave rakarukwa, rinoda kurapwa nenzira dzemuviri uye dzemakemikari kuvandudza kupfava kwaro, kusagadzikana kweabrasion, kusamira kwemvura, kukurumidza kwemavara, uye zvimwe zvinhu zvejira.

Jacquard Fabric Inspection

Jacquard Fabric Inspection Mushure mekugadzirwa kwemucheka, matanho ose ekugadzira akakwana.Asi kana jira richida kuendeswa kune vatengi, kuongorora kwekupedzisira kwejira kunodiwawo kuti ive nechokwadi:

  1. Iro jira rakati sandara risina macrease.
  2. Iyo jira haina weft oblique.
  3. ruvara rwakafanana nerwepakutanga.
  4. Saizi yemuenzaniso ndeyechokwadi

Maitiro emucheka wejacquard

Zvakanakira jacquard jira

1. Chimiro chejira rejacquard chinyorwa uye chakanaka, uye mubato waro hauna kuenzana;2. Jacquard machira akapfuma kwazvo mumavara.Mapateni akasiyana anogona kurukwa zvichienderana neakasiyana machira epasi, achigadzira akasiyana mavara akasiyana.Wese munhu anogona kuwana zvavanoda zvitaera uye magadzirirwo.3. Jacquard jira iri nyore kutarisira, uye yakanyatsonaka kupfeka muupenyu hwezuva nezuva, uye inewo maitiro ekureruka, kupfava, uye kufema.4. Kusiyana neakadhindwa uye akadhindwa madhizaini, jacquard jira rakarukwa mapatani harizoperi kana kuputika zvipfeko zvako.

Kuipa kwejira rejacquard

1. Pamusana pekugadzirwa kwakaoma kwemamwe machira ejacquard, weft density yejira yakakwirira kwazvo, iyo inoderedza kuputika kwemhepo yemucheka.2. Kugadzirwa uye kugadzirwa kwejacquard micheka yakaoma, uye mutengo wakanyanya kukwirira pakati pemicheka yezvinhu zvakafanana.

Kurongeka kwemachira ejacquard

 

Brocade

Nemuruki weChinese Asingazivikanwi.Mufananidzo negalari.Link

Brocade chete ine pateni kune rumwe rutivi, uye rumwe rutivi haruna chimiro.Brocade inosiyana-siyana: · 1.Tablecloths.Brocade yakanakira seti yetafura, senge napkins, machira etafura, uye machira epatafura.Brocade inoshongedza asi yakasimba uye inokwanisa kumira nekushandiswa kwemazuva ese ·2.Zvipfeko.Brocade yakanakira kugadzira zvipfeko, senge trim jaketi kana magedhi emanheru.Nepo machira anorema asina dhiripu yakafanana nemamwe machira akareruka, kusimba kunogadzira silhouette yakarongeka.·3.Accessories.Brocade zvakare yakakurumbira kune fashoni zvishandiso senge machira uye mabhegi.Mapeteni akanaka uye machira akaomeswa anoita kutaridzika kwakanaka kwezvimedu zvekutaura.·4.Kushongedza kumba.Brocade cades yave yakashongedzwa imba yekushongedza yavo inoyevedza dhizaini.Brocade durability inoita kuti ive yakanaka kune upholstery uye drapes.

 

提花面料-7 Na CC BY-SA 3.0, Linkki

Brocatelle

 

Brocatelle yakafanana neBrocade mukuti ine pateni kune rimwe divi, kwete rimwe.Iri jira rinogara rine dhizaini yakaoma kunzwisisa kupfuura Brocade, iyo ine yakasarudzika yakasimudzwa, yakazvitutumadza nzvimbo.Brocatelle kazhinji inorema uye yakasimba kupfuura Brocade.Brocatelle inowanzo shandiswa kune tsika uye zvipfeko zvepamberi, senge masutu, madhirezi, nezvimwe.

提花面料-8 Na CC0, LinkDamask

Madhizaini eDamask anoratidzwa neiyo base uye pateni mavara ari reverse kumberi kuenda kumashure.Damask inowanzo siyanisa uye inogadzirwa neshinda dze satin yekunzwa yakatsetseka.Chigadzirwa chekupedzisira ndeye inodzoreredzwa yejira remachira iro rinochinjika.Damask jira rinowanzo shandiswa uye rinogadzirwa muDhokwe, Skirts, Fancy Jackets, uye Coats.

提花面料-9 Na https://www.momu.be/collectie/studiecollectie.html / Mufananidzo naStany Dederen, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

 

Matelassé

Matelassé (inozivikanwawo semachira maviri) inyanzvi yeFrench-yakafemerwa yekuruka iyo inopa jira kuti rive rakamonereka kana rakaputirwa.Mazhinji machira akavharidzirwa anogona kuwanikwa pajacquard loom uye akagadzirirwa kutevedzera maitiro ekusona ruoko kana quilting.Micheka yeMatelassé inokodzera zvivharo zvekushongedza, kukanda mapiro, mabhedha, zvivharo zvequilt, duvets, uye pillowcases.Inoshandiswawo zvakanyanya mumubhedha wemubhedha uye mumubhedha wevana.

 

 

 

提花面料-10 Na < CC0, Link

Tapestry

Muchirevo chemazuva ano, "Tapestry" inoreva jira rakarukwa pamusoro pejacquard loom kutevedzera tapestries yekare."Tapestry" izwi risinganzwisisike, asi rinotsanangudza jira rinorema rine rakarukwa rine mavara mazhinji.Tapestry inewo ruvara rwakapesana kumusana (somuenzaniso, jira rine mashizha egirinhi pavhu dzvuku richava neshizha dzvuku kumashure pavhu rakasvibirira) asi rakakora, rakaoma, uye rinorema kudarika damask.Tapestry inowanzorukwa neshinda yakakora kupfuura Brocade kana Damask.Tapestry Yekushongedza imba: sofa, piro, uye chigaro chejira.

 

 

提花面料-11

 

Cloque

Cloque jira rine yakasimudzwa weave pateni uye pleated kana quilted kutaridzika.Kumusoro kunoumbwa nezvimiro zvidiki zvisina kusimudzwa zvakaumbwa nechimiro chekuruka.Iri jira rejacquard rakagadzirwa zvakasiyana nemamwe machira ejacquard mukuti inogadzirwa kuburikidza nekuderera.Mafibhi echisikigo mumucheka anoderera panguva yekugadzirwa, zvichiita kuti zvinhu zvifukidzwe nemapundu-akaita semapundu.Nguo dzakavharika uye madhirezi emhando yepamusoro anowanzo shandiswa kune akasiyana zviitiko uye zviitiko akagadzirwa mumucheka uyu uye akanyanya kurongeka uye anoyevedza.Iyo yakanaka uye inoburitsa hunyoro husina chimwe chinhu chingaenderana.


Nguva yekutumira: Feb-17-2023